Skip to main content

Humax RM106 remote control repair.

This repair is of today. Yesterday there was an accident with a glass of red wine, it was spilled over this Humax tuner remote control.


 Note it is important to quickly remove the batteries in case such a spill happens, to avoid additional damage from leakage of the batteries. Thus not simply let it dry, remove the batteries first!

Opening is usually a bit nasty, since it involves prying with a knife and/or small screwdrivers. I’m using a Wera component lifter, a kind of screwdriver for the purpose of prying, but a normal small screwdriver works just as well here.

I made a start at the top, the thin end of the remote control. After I made a start, I insert some toothpicks to keep the enclosure open. I managed to keep the damage to one broken tab this time, but usually it happens to me one or more tabs break. It’s a bit unavoidable with these cheap plastic enclosures.











After it all opened up, it appeared the wine got sticky and in between the circuit board and the rubber keys. It likely shorts these contacts, and it must be cleaned to make the buttons work again. Thus I put the case parts and the rubber key mat into soapy water for a while. The circuit board I just cleaned with plain water and dry it with a paper towel.



 Remote controls tend to gather quite some dirt and this is actually a good reason to give it a proper cleaning. One can also use an old toothbrush or similar to give it a gentle rub.

When inspecting the circuit board, it appeared one of the battery tabs was actually not properly soldered. To avoid a future contact problem, I soldered it in place as it should have been.
After all parts were dried, assembled all parts back, and the result is as new :)
Note the tuner itself was featured before in this post.



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

ADR modules part 1

This is a restoration project I’ve been procrastinating around since about 2015. This will be quite some work, but then if one doesn’t start at least it will not happen at all. This will be a step by step project, and see how far we get with this Kaizen like approach. So first a short intro of the four audio modules made by Audio & Design (Recording) Ltd, in the mid 70s based in Shinfield Green, Reading, Berkshire UK. The company still exists to this date and is still active in pro-audio and is now in a different location but still in Reading. These modules can be dated to the mid 1970s, more precisely found the E900 Equaliser unit quality checklists to be dated 12 November 1976. There are two E900 equaliser modules, and two F760N Compressor/Limiters. A picture of the now dismantled mixing desk with the four modules. The mixing desk was in a quite dusty and sorry state. The desk was too space consuming and heavy to keep and many other parts were sold as separate items. ...

A Story of Repair (SoR): Electric Kettle

One or two weeks ago, during the day, the RCCD (residual-current circuit breaker) tripped. The root cause was very unclear at first since no equipment was switched on or off during the event. Also the weather was quite humid and sticky after a thunderstorm, so that could be a factor as well. By unplugging some usual suspects one at a time, we could trace it to the culprit. First I unplugged the coffee maker from the mains, but again the RCCD tripped after some minutes. Next the electric kettle was unplugged, and bingo! The RCCD did not trip again. This Kettle, a Tristar HL-108B, has a base piece. This base did have my suspicion, since the inner wires became visible from where there should be a cable strain relief. Opening the base required special spanner or ‘fork’ style screws. Somehow they want to discourage repair, but they are wrong. With a suitable long bit style drivers it was fairly easy to get access to the wire terminals. The multimeter did not show any problems, but these kin...

More cheap trick tool alternatives (Remove Stuck/Seized/Frozen Bottom Bracket Fixed Cup)

Many bicycle tools can be quite expensive for an average tinkerer. On the other end some parts can be so hard to remove, that they do require some investment in tools to get the job done. E.g. to remove the fixed cup of an old road bike. Found this neat trick on Youtube for that exact problem, by "RJ The Bike Guy". Note he starts with an expensive electric impact wrench which works wonders if you own such a thing, but watch the video to the end where he shows a bit cheaper way where he uses some long breaker bar.